Watch and Brand News In Review: 2017 Watches

Before the season of debuts officially commences and we return to the halls of the Geneva Palexpo for the 2018 edition of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), we shine a spotlight on some of our favorite and most discussed (and of course, most Instagrammed…) watch releases from the 2017 horological year.

Carefully Curated Watch Collections: 2017 Edition

Last year’s SIHH featured exciting releases from leading houses of horology. While we already have an idea of what’s to come at SIHH 2018 with the pre-releases introduced by the exhibiting brands, we can’t wait to see the complete array of new models next week! Follow along with us on Instagram and Facebook for exclusive behind the scenes presentations, hands-on reviews from Tim Mosso, and of course; a never-ending stream of wristshots!

Mechanical Marvels

Extremely sophisticated complications are not only a platform for elite watchmakers to demonstrate their technical standing; they are true mechanical works of art.

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  • Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Skeleton
  • P. Journe Vagabondage III – The third series of jumping time Vagabondage watches, and the first wristwatch with a jumping digital seconds indication.
  • Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time – Equipped with an orbital flying tourbillon
  • Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600
  • Zenith Defy Lab – Features a revolutionary new oscillator system, replacing the classic Swiss anchor, hairspring and balance wheel.

Thin is In

As watch brands pull out all the stops for record-breaking thinness, these four pack quite a punch in complexity, complication and of course, style. These super-slim timepieces are effortlessly at home on the wrist of the modern gentleman.

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  • Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic – Statement making style in the sleekest of ways
  • Cartier Drive de Cartier Extra Flat – Elegantly straddling the line between dressy and casual
  • Hermès Slim d’Hermès L’heure Impatiente – Endowed with a complication that invites us to look forward to an upcoming moment
  • Piaget Altiplano 60th Anniversary Automatic

Work Horse Chronographs

Start. Stop. Reset. An instrument to measure elapsed time, the mechanical chronograph is a beautifully functional object that encourages regular engagement between the wearer and the watch they are wearing. While many chrono-enthusiasts choose digital timing systems for every-day activities, they constantly activate appreciation for the micro-mechanical engineering and design that preceded production.

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  • Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph
  • Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Panorama Date
  • Hamilton Intra-Matic 68
  • Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar; Ref. 5372P
  • Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona
  • Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chronograph
  • Zenith Defy El Primero 21

Dial for Style

We have a soft spot for sector dials; dials that feature a central ring with radiating markers at the hours. Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled a trio of watches with striking sector dials in 2017 to mark the 25th anniversary of the Master Control collection. While not a sector dial per se, we also admire the graphic look of the Calatrava Ref. 6000G-001, introduced by Patek Philippe to salute the 40th anniversary of its acclaimed self-winding caliber 240 movement.

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  • Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date
  • Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph
  • Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Geographic
  • Patek Philippe Calatrava; Ref. 6006G-001

Color Stories

Equally casual and elegant, the color blue continues its reign as a collector’s favorite. From deep, inky hues to the surprisingly vibrant ‘signalblau’ presented by German watchmaker, NOMOS Glashütte, this color trend is here to stay.

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  • Hublot Big Bang Unico Blue Sapphire
  • IWC Portugieser Automatic
  • Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche
  • NOMOS Glashütte Ahoi neomatik signalblau
  • Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Co-Axial Master Chronometer GMT – “Big Blue”
  • Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time; Ref. 5650G Advanced Research
  • Ressence Type 1² “Squared”
  • Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller
  • TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01

Material Science

Adding a twist to our perception of what constitutes a precious watch case, these timepieces are constructed with non-traditional materials; sapphire, bronze, carbon fiber and proprietary compounds. Material science is hard at work, increasing durability, wearability and offering a diverse color palette.

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    • Bell & Ross BR-X1 Tourbillon Skeleton Sapphire
    • Hublot Big Bang Unico Perpetual Calendar Sapphire

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    • Montblanc 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition
    • Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Bronzo – PAM 671
    • Breitling Avenger Hurricane. A new chronograph constructed in an ultra-sturdy and ultra-light case made in a futuristic material named Breitlight.
    • Panerai LAB-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech 3 Days – PAM 700. Exercising the infinite potential of carbon; from the case constructed in Carbotech, to dial covered in carbon nanotubes; and the movement, which works without any lubrication thanks to the mechanical properties of carbon composites.

Historical Reverence

As the saying goes, everything old is new again. From vintage aesthetics to legendary models designed as tributes to the pioneering spirit of different marques, these watches withstand the test of time.

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  • Grand Seiko re-creation of the first Grand Seiko Limited Edition; produced in platinum, yellow gold and stainless steel
  • IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII Edition “Tribute to Mark XI”
  • Omega 1957 Trilogy Limited Editions: The spirit of ’57 meets 21st century technology
    • Omega 1957 Trilogy Speedmaster ’57 Chronograph
    • Omega 1957 Trilogy Seamaster 300 Co-Axial Master Chronometer
    • Omega 1957 Trilogy Railmaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer

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  • Oris Big Crown 1917 Limited Edition
  • TAG Heuer Autavia Calibre Heuer 02
  • Vacheron Constantin Historiques Triple Calendrier 1942 and 1948
  • Zenith Chronomaster Heritage 146

 For the Love of Sport

Engineered for high-performance environments and destined for those who love speed, endurance, and of course, mechanics, these watches are robust, reliable and represent the union of form and function. Whether to celebrate exceptional partnerships or ongoing relationships with wheels, gears and the high-seas, these pieces underscore the importance of timing.

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  • Baume & Mercier Clifton Club Shelby Cobra Limited Edition
  • Hublot Techframe Ferrari Tourbillon Chronograph
  • Omega Speedmaster Racing Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph
  • Panerai Luminor 1950 PCYC 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Acciaio – PAM 653
  • Roger Dubuis Excalibur Aventador S

A Deep Dive 

You don’t have to be a certified scuba diver to appreciate a dive watch’s sporty aesthetic. These watches lend themselves to the boardroom just as easily as they do the sea.

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  • Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver
  • Breitling Superocean Héritage II – 60 years of adventure and discovery
  • Bremont Type S301
  • Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 Professional 600m Diver’s Watch
  • Longines Legend Diver Watch
  • Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller – perpetuating the 50-year heritage of this ultra-resistant professional divers’ watch

Ladies Choice

Watchmakers have been making timepieces for women for centuries, and contemporary favorites play with shapes, color, metal and complications in stunning and intriguing ways. A woman’s watch need not be ornate or diamond-adorned to make her swoon; the trend of women who favor men’s watches upon their wrists is here to stay.

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  • Bulgari Serpenti – Twisting time with this versatile collection.
  • Cartier Panthère de Cartier – An icon from the ‘80s is back in a big way.
  • Hermès Cape Cod Shadow
  • IWC Da Vinci Automatic 36
  • Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Moon
  • Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Co-Axial Master Chronometer
  • Panerai Luminor Due 3 Days Titanio – PAM 728 – borrowed from the boys
  • Patek Philippe Ladies’ World Time; Ref. 7130G
  • Ulysse Nardin Classic Lady Dual Time
  • Vacheron Constantin Overseas Small Model

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About Caroline Kallman Joffe
Caroline has been passionately involved in the watch industry for the past 10 years. She has received tremendous education in many facets of the watch industry. Caroline currently serves as the publisher of iW Magazine and is the Marketing Director for Govberg Jewelers.

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