Just announced at SIHH 2018 during the close of day two is the Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R-6.1. This watch is designed to stand the test of time with an ultra resistant carburised stainless steel case.
Tim Mosso Hands On Review:
FB 1R-6.1 Ferdinand Berthoud
The case of this watch is built according to the architecture inspired both by the Marine Clocks of Ferdinand Berthoud and by the suspension system of onboard chronometers. The case features a molecular structure reinforced by a themochemical process guaranteeing an exceptional surface hardness of 1200 Vickers.
Two octagonal stainless steel pieces give it the characteristic shape. At 2 and 11 o’clock there are two lateral portholes providing a chance for the wearer to admire the chain-and-fusee mechanism. There is an exhibition caseback complementing these two portholes allowing you to also admire the finishing on the movement.
The calibre is built with architecture in mind. The manual wind movement features 18 nickel silver bridges with titanium pillars surrounding the heart. This style construction would have been typical in 18th century marine chronometers and allows the symmetrical equilibrium of the movement.
The movement features an upside-down barrel and fusee. Each element is suspended, allowing for the watchmakers to save on the thickness of the watch. The movement itself is just 9.89mm thick, extremely thin for this complicated watch.
Within the calibre are the barrel and fusee, linked by a chain of 474 steel links and is 28cm long. This chain has a maximum tension exercised upon it in up to three kilos. The barrel drums turn the mainspring in one direction while the spring winds down and in the opposite direction when wound up.
A patent has been filed for the sophisticated power-reserve within the movement as well. It features a truncated cone which moves up and down along an arbor connected to the barrel. It is topped with a mobile arm tipped with a watch jewel. This jewel reflects the barrel’s state of the wind.
There is also a tourbillon, comprised of 67 components within a titanium carriage. This tourbillon rotates once per minute but does not indicate the seconds. This watch features a central sweeping seconds hand made of gilded bronze.
The Dial Details
This watch is a regulator and yet it has something many other regulators don’t have, a mostly solid dial. The dial itself features three small apertures, showing the hours, original power display and a hand engraved pyramid motif openworked area. As described with the movement, the seconds hand is central and can be read around the rim of the dial.
The hands on the FB 1R-6.1 are reinterpreted from various hand shapes used by Ferdinand Berthoud in various timepieces. The minutes hand is 18k gold while the seconds hand is bronze. Both the fixed hour markers and power reserve are made of steel.
Technical Details & Price of the FB 1R-6.1
- Calibre FB-T.FC.R
- Manual winding
- Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve, fusee-and-chain, and touribllon (with central seconds)
- 53 hour power reserve
- Exhibition caseback
- Carburised stainless steel
- 44mm diameter
- 13.95mm thick
- 30m water resistance
- Black alligator leather strap
- Titanium buckle (tang buckle also available)
- Limited Edition of 20
- $230,000 CHF (approximately $240,000 USD, price to be finalized)
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