Updated January 17th with full watch descriptions.
Tim Mosso of Govberg Jewelers takes a look at day one of SIHH. Make sure to follow @govbergwatches on Instagram for up-to-date behind the scenes of SIHH 2018!
Discover hands on reviews from MB&F, HYT, Jerome DeWitt, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Girard-Perregaux, IWC Schaffhausen, Vacheron Constantin and Roger Dubuis!
Carré des Horlogers
Tim explores the collection of independent watchmakers and independent watch brands showcasing watches at SIHH 2018. These models are a collection the independents and brands that have gravitated to SIHH from Baselworld over the last half-decade. As Baselworld had shrunk, premier independent brands including MB&F, HYT, and (Kari) Voutilainen have found their natural home among peers in the Carré des Horlogers.
We are looking at the HM8 MoonMachine 2 and my friend here from the company, he’s going to rotate. As you can see, the corona-style cap to the case, featuring the signatures of Sarpaneva and MB&F, the signature of Stepan Sarpaneva, collaborator on this MoonMachine 2. You can also see his iconic man in the moon face on the radially skeletonized winding mass, yet another Sarpaneva signature.
MoonMachine 2: :10-1:42 // Split Escapement: 1:43-3:07 // HM3: 3:07 – 3:41
Now, this is one of twelve pieces being made in rose gold. You can see it’s a combination of titanium and rose gold. 12 pieces in titanium, 12 pieces in blackened titanium also available. Now, through the front, you can see there’s a grating with jumping hours, scrolling minutes, and another Sarpaneva moon face, this one featuring twin disks, especially thin at fractions of a millimeter. This is artistry at its finest. And, of course, Stepan Sarpaneva with a sense of humor, all disks bear a caricature of his own face.
You can see in profile that the lugs are articulated to make this large watch wear small. I can tell you, eyes closed, the titanium watch felt like it was maybe 36 millimeters round. You can also see the overriders and high-polished titanium in the two-tone effect created, including by the pusher adjuster in profile that’s used for adjusting the moon phase.
Now, the watch is considered to be, the horological machine 8, MoonMachine 2, in conjunction with Stepan Sarpaneva, automatic winding, you can see the caliber through the winding mass itself, a high horology caliber in a high horology application.
So this is the split escapement, and this is the newest addition to the Legacy Machine family. Effectively, Max Busser asking, what would an MB&F look like if it had been designed as a wristwatch in the year 1980?
So that’s the essential aesthetic, and you can see what might be one of the longest balance staffs in the history of wristwatch mechanics. You see the escapement is hidden, or rather you don’t see it, but you do see the balance structure oversized, worn on its dual anchored and vaulted balance bridge. You can see there’s a frosted golden finish beneath, as well as rich, glossy dials, with blue hands indicating. It’s a medley of colors and shapes and planes and textures.
We’re looking at the reverse side of the MB&F split escapement from the Legacy Machine collection. You can see twin mainspring barrels, a fully-revealed escapement, right down to a skeletonization of the bridge for the anchor. You can actually see the reverse side of the anchor as it alternates against the escapement. Nothing hidden here, and the watch is best off for it. You can see the name of Stephen McDonnell, noted collaborator and part of the group of friends.
You’ll also note that this is part of a limited series of watches, individual numbering at the base. This is a timepiece that represents the fusion of MB&F wristwatch design with a loving gesture to the pocket watch era, and a little bit of Jules Verne mixed in.
Lastly, it’s the original MB&F HM3. As you can see, scrolling hours and minutes. You can see the rotor with its signature double-sided battleax design, emblematic of the brand. This could be considered the watch that announced MB&F had arrived. Distinctive in its design, unforgettable in its character, it remains a classic. And even an august company here at SIHH, it still grabs glances and commands respect. A handsome watch, a breakthrough watch, MB&F at its best. It’s the HM3 here at SIHH 2018.
You’re looking at a world premiere for HYT. This is the fusion of the H2 and the H0. This is the H20, featuring the same caliber tool one developed in conjunction with Audemars Piguet Renaud et Papi. It actually features a jumping five-minute hand that moves in quantized bursts over five-minute segments instantaneously.
H2O 3:41 – 4:52 // HO Yellow Gold 4:53 – 6:16 // H4 6:17 – 6:39 // H1 Antoine Griezmann 6:40 – 7:36 // H1 Alinghi 7:37 – 9:39
It features the fluidic display with two immiscible liquids. You can see they’re actually driven by the two reservoirs at center, splayed out like a Ducati or a Harley-Davidson V-Twin. The reservoirs expand and contract as the fluid moves across the dial. You can see it features a full balance bridge, entirely hand-finished like every component of the watch, due to its Renaud et Papi heritage. You’ll also note that the hours of the day are radially splayed, and the watch features the same 3D dome sapphire as the H0. Now, the timepiece will retail for 95,000 Swiss francs. Not available just yet, but it will be soon. You can put this lugless, 51-millimeter on your wrist by visiting HYT on the web.
New for 2018, it’s the combination of last year’s H0 48 millimeter lugless watch with a new material. For the first time, you’re looking at yellow gold on HYT. Now, the dial is champagne style, beautifully grained, and that’s the theme of the watch. It’s elegance, it’s beauty. They like to call it the junction of art and science. There’s been the suggestion that the large 3D compound-curved sapphire puts the aesthetics of the watch somewhere between a museum vitrine and the test tube of a laboratory.
Highly technical in its aesthetic, but simple to read. It is actually a regulator dial featuring seconds, minutes, hours via the fluidic track, and the power reserve at approximately 3:00 on the dial. The twin bellows, or the actual reservoirs of the fluids, immiscible, clear, and blue, can be seen on the reverse side. This is the original caliber 101, manual wind, four hertz, it’s a 65-hour power reserve, and as you can see, what is behind the high-tech aesthetic is in fact traditional Swiss watchmaking. Hand-finished with beveled edges, Cotes de Geneve, and polished screws.
You can also see it features a contemporary, full balance bridge structure. It’s lugless, so it wears easily. Let’s go back to the dial side real quick. The signature is that fluidic drive, but this year, it’s all about yellow gold on the H0.
We’re looking at the H4, which features dynamo luminescence. That’s right, it has its own onboard dynamo. We’re going to show you that in just a moment. As you can see, the system is self-powered, once you wind it up.
HYT 2018, we are here with HYT H1 Antoine Griezmann, named after the Madrid-based footballer. That’s European-style football, for you folks back in the States. But this watch has transcendent appeal, with a beautiful PVD blue titanium case that is blued and blackened. It features the signature fluidic display, that is two reservoirs shaped like pistons at 6:00 driving twin immiscible fluids, one clear, one blue, around the dial, in a regular fashions. Hours within the fluidic display, minutes at center, seconds at 9:00. And you can see the power reserve for the 65 hour autonomy at 3:00.
The watch features an impressive box section sapphire, almost like a vintage dive box plexiglass. And that sapphire in the form of an old-style plexiglass caps an incredibly intricate dial featuring multiple focal points, planes, materials, textures, and colors. For 65,000 Swiss francs, 25 pieces will be issued.
2018, this was one of last year’s novelties from HYT, but still fascinating and handsome. It is the HYT H1 Alinghi, the Swiss sailing outfit being a partner of the brand. And you can see elements of the yacht recapitulated on the dial, in the form of the power reserve bearing the Alinghi logo, Alinghi colors throughout. You can also see the image of nautical rigging or winch mechanisms across the dial at the base. Now, of course immiscible liquids as ever. Black and clear, and the black ring will essentially move around the dial as the time advances. And when it reaches the end, I’ll demonstrate how it advances, but when it reaches the end on the opposite side, the material will actually retrograde back to its point of origin.
The watch features HYT’s original H101 caliber. It’s actually built like a traditional mechanical watch, though the two bellows that you see at 6:00 actually move both liquids across the dial. A conventional Swiss lever escapement actually regulates the movement of the liquid, with a four-hertz beat rate and a free-sprung balance, this is a watch that will be made only 20 pieces, so you’ll scarcely ever see one. And that from a company that builds just a little bit more than 200 a year.
Now, you’re about to see the retrograding action of the fluidic display, so this is worth a pause, because it’s one of the great tricks in high horology (Watch at 8:59). Now you can see almost as quickly as a mechanical mechanism, the fluid withdraws itself around the circumference of the dial. Every 12 hours, you get this retrograding effect. Now on the case back, you can see exactly what I was discussing. You can see there is actually an Alinghi branding brace across the back. Otherwise, full balance bridge, 35 jewels, manually wound. Again, the 60 to 65 hour power reserve. This is a contemporary and hand-finished Swiss movement, in a watch, frankly, unlike any other, unless we’re talking another HYT.
Next up you are looking at the DeWitt Endless Drive, in the hands of its inventor, Jerome DeWitt himself (in video). Now, you can see the watch features an Archimedes-type screw at center, driving scrolling minutes and scrolling hours. Now there is a power reserve at 12:00 that turns from green to red as the screw turns, and discharges the roughly 59 to 60 hours of the power reserve. The watch features the signature DeWitt imperial column case structure, with modular-style lugs, slightly scalloped with a blasted interior.
Endless Drive 9:40 – 10:41 // Out of Time 10:41 – 11:45 // Alternating Seconds Scrolling 11:46 – 12:31
You can see that the dial itself features a matte coloration to minimize glare. And in profile, you can see the depth of the case, as well as the interlacing rose gold and black components. The watch is beautifully-made, a collection of parts that work in harmony. None more so than the automatic caliber within, though. This is entirely a manufacture movement from DeWitt, executed in Jerome DeWitt’s atelier. I have to thank Jerome DeWitt for acting as my most capable hand model today.
“See that beat second, it’s beating each second, means it’s like a steeplechase if I may say. So it gives you a very, it’s what we call a regulator effect. But you have the time, the right time, and on the other side, you have a disk turning on itself. This disk turning, it’s just to show that even I’m a watchmaker, I can’t control the time. It’s absolutely impossible. Time is passing. And that’s the charm of this watch, because you have on one way, the precision with the time, and the other side, just something turning and telling you, time is still flying with the Out of Time model from the Academia collection” – Jerome DeWitt
And you’re watching an alternating seconds scrolling display. As you can see, it is not a retrograde. It simply reverses course every 30 seconds. Twin mainspring barrel, entirely hand-finished. Jerome DeWitt acting as my hand model. Sir, how long did you say it took to complete the anglage of the watch? The finishing by itself?
“Just for polishing, it’s four weeks for the movement.” – Jerome DeWitt
That’s for the caliber, which you can see is entirely open. You can even see the planetaries of the twin mainspring barrels, the DeWitt imperial column case in profile. And then on the reverse side, you can see the manual wind caliber with twin mainspring barrels when viewed from the rear. Entirely hand-finished and handmade in-house by DeWitt.
Next up, we are with Montblanc, and we are looking at the Minerva caliber 1629, an enormous, 16 lean movement. Work on it was started in 1929, and hence the name. You can see it has a big, slow-beating, 18,000 vibration per hour balance. Entirely hand-finished, it takes two days just to assemble this movement. 200 made for all applications, out of the Villeret workshop, which is the Ortogaume component of Montblanc’s manufacture. Entirely hand-finished, exquisite, ancient, and beautiful for it. This is a relic in the best possible sense.
Minderva Cliber 1629 12:31 – 13:06 // 1858 Geosphere 13:07 – 14:01 // Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph 14:02 – 14:51 // 1858 Pocket Watch 14:51 – 16:34 // 1858 Chronograph 16:34 – 17:38
This is the 1858 Geosphere. This is a collection of three pieces in 42 millimeters. You can see, you can get the Geosphere in bronze, you can get it in stainless steel, and you have your choice of three straps. There’s a textile NATO, there’s a calfskin with a contrasting stitch, and then there is an aviator’s Bund-style. Now you can see it’s available in bronze and stainless steel, and that’s how look relative to each other. Montblanc is using a copper-aluminum alloy that is a bit more corrosion-resistant, though they do promise it will form a patina.
The highlight of this watch is the dual-time functionality, with northern and southern hemisphere individual times possible. As you can see, the watch features a ceramic bezel, featuring the compass rose. And your reference time zone at 9:00 on the dial.
We’re looking at the Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph. Now 44.8 millimeters in stainless steel, you can see they’ve relocated the date. It’s a dual-time vertical clutch column wheel chronograph, stainless steel. For 2018, the Rieussec is part of the Star Legacy collection. You can see it on the reverse side, the manufacture movement, MBR 200. It has a 60 to 65 hour power reserve, and you’ll note impressively specified with a full balance bridge and a free spring index.
You can see the column wheel through the skeletonized bridge, twin mainspring barrels to achieve that exceptional 60 to 65 hour power reserve. Automatic winding, as you can see, by means of the skeletonized winding mass. Now part of the Star Legacy collection, this is the tenth anniversary, Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph.
We have a double dose of the Montblanc 1858 pocket watch. 60 millimeters in titanium. This is a case comprised of 52 individual parts, and you can see the construction of the case, exceptionally complex, incorporating both stanchions for turning the watch into a desk clock and a compass structure. Dumortierite dial, very much like lapis lazuli. You can see that to good advantage. Beautifully marbled with a combination of tones and a rich texture. You’ll also note that the caliber 1624 has been converted to feature a 24 hour display. Now there are luminescent elements on the outside of the case. You can see that the compass, fully luminescent, everything that looks like Super-LumiNova is, and the same is true of the front side of the watch.
We’re going to turn it over now and look at the caliber itself. This is 1624. This is produced by Montblanc’s Minerva Villeret manufacture. An exceptionally large movement. The movement itself is actually larger than the 36 millimeter Rolex Datejust. Entirely hand-finished. You can see that devil’s tail lever as part of the chronograph caliber. It is a mono-pusher system, and though a true vintage, one might say heritage caliber, it’s encased in a high tech, titanium canister, which features a combination of satin and blasted finish. The watch will be made in 100 pieces as a limited series. This is the Montblanc 1858 pocket watch, which can be used as a desk clock, pocket watch, pendant watch on a chain, or worn on a special calfskin Bund strap.
We are looking at the 1858 Chronograph. As you can see, 42 millimeters, you have your option of bronze with champagne dial. Also anthracite-style dials, in stainless steel. 42 millimeters with a robust 100 meters of water resistance. These are full-featured sports watches, and each one subject to Montblanc’s exclusive 500-hour chronometry test. As you can see, factory NATO and vintage-style contrasting stitch calfskin straps are available.
Let’s turn over this bronze case so you can see it on the reverse side. You can see Montblanc emblazoned with the iconic wind rose, and star within. A handsome watch. It is a combination of titanium and bronze, as you can see. Montblanc also using a high percentage of aluminum in its bronze formulation, to avoid corrosion, although Montblanc assures me the watch is specifically designed to take on a distinctive patina over time. These watches, priced in euros for now, will be priced just below 4,000 Euro when they come to market.
We have Tri-Axial Tourbillon Minute Repeaterm, 48 millimeters in titanium. You can see it has a dramatically domed sapphire that increases the internal air pocket for purposes of resonance and visibility.
Tri-Axial Troubillon 28:37 – 29:38 // Laureato Chronograph 29:39 – 30:10 // Skeleton Flying Tourbillon 30:10 – 30:37
A combination of two complications previously in the catalog. This is a watch that retails for approximately 400,000 US dollars, with the expectation that one dozen will be made this year. The high volume of the case permits a flying time bridge across the case back, air openness visibility. The Girard-Perregaux Tri-Axial Tourbillon Minute Repeater. That’s the Girard-Perregaux Tri-Axial Minute Repeater.
Next up is the Laureato chronograph, 42 millimeters in rose gold, part of the new 2018 Girard-Perregaux Laureato chronograph collection, available in rose gold as seen here, and in a debut for Girard-Perregaux, 904L steel, Rolex-style.
With Girard-Perregaux, this is part of the new Laureato chronograph collection. This is the stainless steel, 904L steel, 38 millimeter chronograph. The watch is available in both 38 millimeters and 42 millimeters, in rose gold and stainless steel.
Here at SIHH 2018 with the Girard-Perregaux Laureato, the Skeleton Flying Tourbillion. 42 millimeters in rose gold. This timepiece is also available in a white gold variant. Here it is. SIHH 2018.
We are looking at a Girard-Perregaux Neo-Bridge Tourbillon Skeleton. A watch that keeps no secrets.
Major Brands of SIHH
Led by Jaeger-LeCoultre have been mainstays of SIHH for years, and 2018 is an anniversary year for Jaeger-LeCoultre. The brand from Le Sentier enters 2018 with a new model line: Polaris by Jaeger-LeCoultre.
The full-line Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection launches on 50th anniversary of the original 1968 Polaris – the definitive model – and the 10th anniversary of the limited-edition Tribute to Polaris. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection includes the Polaris Automatic, Polaris Date, Polaris Chronograph, and the Polaris Chronograph WT/ World Time.
Reverso Tribute Small Seconds 17:38 – 18:10 // Reverso Tribute Duoface 18:10 – 18:28 // E859 Plaris 18:29 – 19:12 // E873 Polaris 19:12 – 20:01 // Polaris Memovox 20:01 – 21:26 // Polaris Chronograph 21:26 – 23:03 // Polaris Date 23:03 – 23:51
Next up, we’re at the Jaeger-LeCoultre, with the Reverso Tribute small seconds. Now this is a watch that features a sunburst blue dial, and a Fagliano strap in matching blue. So if you’re familiar with Casa Fagliano, creators of the bespoke polo boots, a long time association with Jaeger-LeCoultre and the Reverso line, here for the first time ever in vivid blue, matching sunburst dial. Case is stainless steel, 45.6 by 27.4.
Now, next to it, we have the Reverso Tribute Duoface Large. This watch is pink gold, 49.4 millimeters by 29.9, so it’s a big watch, featuring a sunrayed anthracite dial with a silver Clous de Paris reverse. Also with the Fagliano strap, this is a boutique limited edition of 100 pieces.
And you’re looking at two pieces from the Jaeger-LeCoultre Heritage collection, that is the museum. On the left, the original 1960s E855. It’s a little bit covered in glare, but it’s also covered in glory, one of the best-preserved examples I’ve ever seen. Right next to it, E859 Polaris. This is the 1968 execution of the watch, powered by the caliber K825. And it’s also the inspiration for this year’s new Polaris model line, the original watch released in its definitive form in 1968. 50 years later, the Polaris has become a collection. These two examples from the Heritage gallery gracing the Jaeger-LeCoultre display here at SIHH, alongside the new Polaris model line.
You can see on the left, this is the 1968 caliber K825, in reference E861. Now that was a predecessor to the later E873 featuring the higher beat, caliber 916. The two watches identical in dimensions, but distinctly late ’60s, early ’70s in their character. You can see those 1970s colors on the E873 at right with concentric orange registers about its Memovox center. Sunburst blue, and on the left, you can see the same case form with anthracite sunburst and blue accents on the E861. Two generations of the same watch, from the late ’60s, early ’70s, with two different movements. The story of SIHH 2018 is the Polaris, but history is not neglected.
This is the new debut dais, an all-new collection of Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox, issued on the 10th anniversary of the tribute to Polaris, and the 50th anniversary of the original Polaris ’68, considered to be definitive Polaris. This example right here is 42 millimeters in stainless steel, features a sunray-centered dial with an opaline-grained hour track. Now this is a limited edition of 1,000 pieces with matching textured rubber strap, and alongside it you can see the caliber 956, 44-hour automatic tungsten rotor, manufactured for this tribute to the 1968 Polaris diving alarm.
We’re looking at two models that are part of the new for 2018 Polaris family. Now this is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris date. It’s an automatic winder with a caliber 898 automatic. 38 hour power reserve, 42 millimeter stainless steel case, it’s about 13.1 millimeters thick, 200 meter diving depth, so it is a true sports watch. You can get it either on a full stainless steel bracelet or on a textured rubber piece, also available on the Memovox alarm version. Neither one of these are limited editions. They’re going to be the backbone of the all new for 2018 Polaris collection, launched on the 10th anniversary of the tribute to Polaris, and the 50th anniversary of the definitive 1968 diving alarm.
The 2018 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph, a watch previewed prior to the show. This is a 42 millimeter, stainless steel or pink gold timepiece, featuring either anthracite, black, or sunrayed engrained blue dials, each one featuring the Jaeger-LeCoultre 65 hour power reserve, automatic winding, caliber 751 with vertical clutch and column wheel actuation. All three of them water-resistant two 100 meters, available with calfskin straps and alligator straps, as you can see, starting with the left in rose gold with alligator, at center with calfskin and the contrasting stitch black dial, and then at right what must be considered the most charismatic of the examples, stainless steel 42 millimeter sunrayed engrained opaline dial, with dark brown calfskin leather strap.
For 2018, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris, originally a diving alarm, then a tribute model in 2008, becomes a full-fledged model line as the Deep Sea did several years back. This is the Chronograph model, which I’ve shown you on leather straps. Also available on a factory bracelet. You also get a good view right here of the 65 hour power reserve vertical clutch column wheel, automatic winding, caliber 751H, that is featured in all iterations of this new watch.
All of the new Chronograph models are water-resistant to 100 meters. All of them are 42 millimeters, and 11.92 millimeters thick. Beautifully executed. These are surf-turf watches that can be worn in almost any occasion.
Just as the Deep Sea originally launched as a tribute to Deep Sea in 2011, a tribute to Polaris launched in 2008. Ten years now, 50 years since the definitive 1968 Polaris, and the two anniversaries combining to give us an entire Polaris model line in 2018. The watch you see here is called the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date. It’s the anchor reference of the new collection. It’s powered by a Jaeger-LeCoultre automatic caliber 898A1, 38 hour power reserve, rotating inner bezel. These watches are water-resistant down to 200 meters, so they are true sports watches.
You can see the watch can be equipped on either a rubber strap or a stainless steel bracelet to match. This watch is 42 millimeters in stainless steel, and a quite manageable 13 millimeters thick. And I say manageable on the basis of its true sport watch credentials. This is the tenth anniversary of the original tribute to Polaris that spawned this line, and the father of them all, the Polaris ’68, considered the definitive model within the line, came out 50 years ago in 1968. The two anniversaries coming together to give us a full model line, much as the Deep Sea went from a tribute to a full line, so too does the Polaris.
Now, this is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox model. It features the alarm function as well as the internal rotating bezel, 44 hour power reserve, caliber 956, visible right next to it, with a tungsten rotor. And the Memovox function being more of a ringing, distinct, and tonally-pure iteration of the Jaeger-LeCoultre alarm. Far more advanced than the chirping cricket of the original. This watch is 200 meters water-resistant with the internal rotating bezel.
And this, the bedrock of the line, the original Polaris, channeled into a modern form, will be a limited edition of 1,000 pieces. In this, the tenth anniversary of the tribute to Polaris, and the 50th anniversary of the 1968 definitive Polaris diving alarm model. The Polaris has become a full model line, just as the Deep Sea started with its tribute model in 2011 and became a full line now, so too does the Polaris. And we’re looking at the Polaris Chronograph. These watches are available in pink gold or stainless steel, 42 millimeters, 100 meter water-resistant. Each one features the automatic caliber 751 vertical clutch column wheel, in-house twin barrel, 65 hour power reserve Chronograph.
Now, although they are sports watches, they are reasonably thin, at just under 12 millimeters thick. You get three dial options, you can see off to the right, blue, at center black, and off to the left there is a silver sunburst. Now, the dials are double finished with sunburst at their center. The hour tracks are a sort of opaline or a frosted matte-style finish. You can see off to the left how the pink gold case presents, and of course the other two watches in stainless steel, all on calfskin straps.
We’re here at Jaeger-LeCoultre, with the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Automatic. The entry-level watch of the new full line Polaris timepieces. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris automatic is a 41 millimeter stainless steel watch, available in the dial variations you see here. Blue with the sunburst center and opaline hour track, and black with sunburst center and opaline hour track. The watches are powered by the manufacture caliber 898E1 with a 38 hour power reserve, tungsten rotor, a free-sprung architecture and unidirectional winding. The timepieces are water-resistant down to 100 meters and delivered on either calfskin strap or full metal bracelet.
And the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph, part of the new Polaris-inspired family of watches for 2018. The watch is available in three different dials, that is blue, gray, and black, with two different cases, stainless steel and pink gold. And here we’re looking at the bracelet iteration of the chronograph. The timepieces of the new collection are universally-available on bracelet or strap. The Chronograph you see here, powered by the caliber 751, 65 hour power reserve, vertical clutch column wheel, twin barrels. 42 millimeters in stainless steel and water-resistant down to 100 meters. This is a full-fledged sports chronograph for 2018, from Jaeger-LeCoultre.
We’re looking at the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph World Time in titanium. This is both a world time watch and a chronograph. In some ways, stepping into the void left by the late Amvox 5, and the late great Master Compressor Extreme World Chronograph. The watch features a sunburst black center dial with an opaline hour track, and as you can see, case design as well as dial cues taken from the 1968 variant of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris diving alarm. Part of the new Polaris collection, an entire model family, at SIHH 2018.
The embargoes are listed, we can see the entire collection of Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris sports watches. From a simple automatic up to the flagship pieces. All models, all case metals, all dial variants and color variants. The case sizes span 41 millimeters to a robust 44 in the chronograph world time. This is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection at SIHH 2018.
We’re here with the Ulysse Nardin Marine Tourbillon. This is a watch based on last year’s white enamel dial, now a blue flinque, it’s enamel applied over a Guilloche sunray cut. With a translucent metallic effect, you get both the Guilloche and you get the enamel’s gloss finish. In a stainless case of 43 millimeters, silicon hairspring, free sprung line tourbillon. You can see it’s also an automatic winder. A versatile watch with a 100 meter water resistance rating. Throw this on the water-resistant strap and it could be your one, your grand complication, your sports watch, and your dress watch, all at the same time. This is Ulysse Nardin, the Marine Tourbillon, with a blue flinque enamel dial, 2018 SIHH.
Marine Troubillon 30:36 – 31:24 // Hammerhead Shark Diver Deep Dive 31:24 – 32:18 // Freak Vision 32:18 – 33:41 // Marine Millitary Torpilleur 33:41 – 34:22
We are looking at the all-new Diver Deep Dive Hammerhead Shark, limited edition of 300 pieces. You can see the emblematic Ulysse Nardin blue as well as the hammerhead shark motif across the dial. It’s a limited series of 300 pieces, as you can see. 46 millimeters in titanium, the watch is a dedicated dive watch with a 1000-meter rated depth and a helium escape valve. You can also see there is a shielded crown at 2:00, a hammerhead shark motif on the reverse side, and possibly the most interesting feature of the watch, an extensible hybrid bracelet strap on both sides. The hinge actually contains a spring extension so that you can fit the watch over a dive suit such as a wetsuit, a drysuit, or just a thick winter coat. This is Ulysse Nardin Diver Deep Dive Hammerhead Shark limited edition at SIHH 2018.
We’re here with Ulysse Nardin with the flagship of the 2018 novelties. It is the Freak Vision. 45 millimeters with a combination of titanium bezels and platinum case. This watch introduces a number of innovations first seen on other models in the Ulysse Nardin catalog. The watch has an oversized balance, 12 millimeters beating weight, 18,000 vibrations per hour, both for the easier viewing of the escapement and balance, and because for the first time in a serial production of Freak, the UN anchor escapement constant force system is incorporated. You can also see that the train for the minute hand, which is also a carousel structure, is comprised entirely of silicon wheels produced by Ulysse Nardin’s subsidiary Sigatec, and the silicon hairspring to match, imparting robust anti-magnetic qualities.
Now, there’s still a trap door at 6:00, you still lift the lever, allowing you to set the watch using the bezel. But on the reverse, all has changed. Using the grinder automatic winding system first debuted last year, the watch can automatically wind itself on the wrist up to its maximum rated power resource. It’s a unique unidirectional winding system that’s twice as efficient as the previous iteration. The serialized version of some of the innovations, the Freak Vision also features 30 meter water resistance, continuing the tradition of recent Freak watches.
SIHH brings us the Marine Military Torpilleur, 44 millimeters in stainless steel. The watch is a simplified variant designed to pay more accurate homage to the company’s heritage of military chronometers. The watch is a caliber 118 automatic winding. With chronometer certification, you can see the emblematic torpedo boat on the case back, the namesake of the watch. The steel case features an oversize crown, a minimized but nicely-knurled bezel, vintage-style Arabic numerals, automatic winding COSC, and in profile you can see the individual numbering as well as the blasted finish of the steel case.
IWC Schaffhausen marks an anniversary of its own at SIHH 2018. The firm launched its 150th anniversary jubilee collection of 28 timepieces. Highlights of IWC’s jubilee watches include the IWC 5050 Tribute to Pallweber, a jumping hours and jumping minutes timepiece that pays homage to IWC’s Josef Pallwebber-designed 19th century jump hour/jump minute pocket watches.
F.A. Jones Pocket Watch & Pallweber Pocket Watch 34:22 – 35:08 // Pallweber 5050-03 35:10 – 35:55 // 5051 Tribute to Pallweber 35:55 – 36:45 // Portugieser Constant Force Tourbillon 36:45 – 37:38 // IWC Portuguese Chronograph 37:38 – 38:31
This is the 150th anniversary of the company, and we’re looking at an original F.A. Jones pocket watch. That’s right, Jones index pocket watch, by his own design, the founder of IWC Schaffhausen in 1868. That’s the ancestral pocket watch, and this is part of a family that we’re celebrating for 2018, the Josef Pallweber system, restored by IWC. This is the original jump hour and jumping minute complication. The dial prior cracked and deteriorated, was completely restored by IWC’s artisans. As we approach the jump of the minute, you’ll see that the restoration job is more than skin deep.
And we are looking at the just-unveiled IWC tribute to Pallweber. This is reference 5050-03. It’s the one you were waiting for. Stainless steel with a blue lacquered dial featuring over ten individual steps to create. It’s rich, it’s glossy. It’s also the most accessible of the collection. A 500 piece limited series, this version will be priced at 24,000 Swiss francs, which converts very closely, unit for unit, to US dollars. You can see on the back it’s the same twin barrel manual wind, caliber 94200 with 60 hour power reserve. It is part of the IWC 150th anniversary jubilee collection, as you can see. It features both a full deployant clasp and a Santoni strap. This is the IWC tribute to Pallweber, in stainless steel, for 2018.
Now, you know the tribute to Pallweber wristwatch. Did you know there is also a pocket watch, true to the originals, created in the 19th century? This one is reference 5051. And as you can see, it’s the same jump hour, jump minute display in caliber 94200. But it features hunter case back and hunter case front, each side hinged. You can see on the reverse, twin mainspring barrels, 60 hour power reserve, with the two separate drive trains coupled at the center, the coupling allowing the minutes, which are driven by a different train and a different barrel than the hours, to jump in sync with the seconds display. You can see that the watch features the same richly-lacquered dial treatment as the wristwatch editions.
With the flagship of the 150th jubilee collection, this is the Portugieser Constant Force Tourbillon, 46 millimeters, with only 15 pieces being created for the jubilee. It features over 90 hours of power reserve and the unique single-second step in constant force tourbillon actually defaults to a sweep seconds when it reaches a low level of power reserve. This is the caliber 94805, first seen on the 2013 Ingenieur constant force, using technology inherited from the Siderale Scafusia, the most complicated IWC of all time. Again, this is the flagship of the jubilee collection for 2018. The caliber entirely hand-finished on both sides. Celebrating 150 years of IWC with the Portuguese constant force tourbillon.
Seeing the renewal of the long-running Portuguese chronograph automatic, this may be the quiet story of IWC’s model year, as the original model designed in 1998 is now celebrating its second decade. The most popular Portuguese model ever made, the chronograph automatic debuted as reference 3714, with a Valjoux 7750. For 2018, this is reference 371601. Blue dial, stainless steel case, now with IWC’s own in-house caliber from the 69000 series. You can see this is one out of 2000 in a limited series to mark the occasion.
Part of the jubilee collection, this represents the re-imagining of the strong-selling fan favorite 3714 automatic chronograph, now with in-house caliber, blue dial, and limited series.
Vacheron Constantin opens its 2018 account with a new entry-level collection dubbed “Vacheron Constantin FiftySix.” All units of the Vacheron Constantin FiftySix collection are automatic, 40mm, and available in either pink gold or stainless steel.
FiftySix Day-Date Power Reserve 38:31 – 39:29 // FiftySix Automatic with Date 39:29 – 40:03
We’re at Vacherin Constantin and I can finally talk about the FiftySix collection. This is the FiftySix Day-Date power reserve. Like all FiftySix models, it features a dialed described as opaline center, sunburst hour registers, with a sector profile. I’m not quite sure I see a sector profile, but it’s certainly a nuanced dial, with quite a good deal of planes, textures, colors, and applied elements. Now, it’s 40 millimeters, as are all the FiftySix collection, and you can have it in rose gold, technically 5N, according to Vacherin Constantin, or you can have it in steel. The 40 millimeter case is profiled in homage to the 1956 reference 6073. This is an automatic winding timepiece, powered by Vacherin Constantin’s Geneva hallmark, caliber 2475, with a 40 hour power reserve. This is the Vacherin Constantin FiftySix Day-Date from SIHH 2018.
Again, you’re looking at the FiftySix automatic with date. This is the entry-level model. 40 millimeters in stainless steel, you can also have it in 5N pink gold. The watch is profiled in homage to the 1956 reference 6073. Vintage in proportions but modern in its 40 millimeter size, the watch features a manufacture caliber 1326 automatic with a 48 hour power reserve, finished to Geneva hallmark standards. This is the Vacherin Constantin FiftySix automatic with date at SIHH 2018.
Closing out Day 1 of SIHH Review is Roger Dubuis.
Excalibur Aventador S 40:03 – 40:54 // Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon 40:54 – 41:19
We’re at Roger Dubuis, and as part of the new collaboration with Automobili Lamborghini, announced in late 2017, the company is rolling out a collection of Lamborghini-themed timepieces. This is the world premiere Excalibur Aventador S, powered by manufacture caliber RD103SQ. As you can see, twin balance wheels. They’re not tourbillon, they’re differentially geared together, and offset at a 30-degree angle, so that the combined error will literally cancel out across the twin balances through the differential system.
As you can see, it’s also a carbon fiber case, one of 88 made, with jumping seconds. The colors are vivid, the case is impressive in its size and detailing. The movement is as handsome as the Lamborghini Aventador V12 itself, albeit finished to a higher standard with Geneva hallmark.
This is the Excalibur, skeleton double flying tourbillon, black DLC titanium case, manufacture caliber RD01SQ. Twin tourbillon, both tourbillon cages black polished, and as you’ll note, twin flying tourbillon. Fully skeletonized, finished to Geneva hallmark standards. This is the Roger Dubuis Excalibur skeleton double flying tourbillon.