Watch Tim Mosso from Govberg Jewelers recap Day two of SIHH 2018. Jump down to watch videos highlighting A. Lange & Sohne, Vacheron Constantin, and Richard Mille, Greubel Forsey and Ressence.
SIHH Day 2
“Day 2” of Watchbox’s SIHH 2018 coverage opened with an anniversary; 2018 marks twenty years since Michel Parmigiani’s first shaped caliber and shaped timepiece. In 1998, the Parmigiani Fleurier Ionica and its caliber PF110 seven-day movement marked the dawn of a new tradition of Fleurier watchmaking. In 2001, the Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpa tonneau case debuted with the now signature teardrop lugs. For 2018, Parmigiani is celebrating the “Year of the Kalpa” with three new models.
Roger Dubuis continues the themes of 2017 with Pirelli Tire co-branding and a collaboration with Automobili Lamborghini that has led to a new model, the Excalibur Aventador S. The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Aventator S Blue is an 88-piece limited edition to be priced at 180,000 Swiss francs. Its forged carbon fiber case mimics materials used on modern Lamborghini automobiles – especially the Super Trofeo race cars that Roger Dubuis will sponsor for 2018.
Vacheron Constantin launched the FiftySix collection of watches, and we have hands-on with the 2018 Vacheron Constantin novelties. The Metiers d’Art collection continues with “Les Aerostiers,” engraved and enameled tributes to early balloonists. Vacheron Constantin expanded the Traditionnelle collection with the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar and the Traditionnelle Tourbillon, the first tourbillon watch by Vacheron to include automatic winding; the winding system uses a peripheral rotor.
A. Lange & Sohne commemorated the first anniversary of Walter Lange’s death by launching the A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia Triple Split, a chronograph capable of timing two concurrent events down to the hour, minute, and second; 100 pieces will be offered in white gold, 43.2mm.
Greubel Forsey wowed showgoers with its Greubel Forsey Earth GMT. The Earth GMT combines three time zones, a world time function, a 24-second inclined tourbillon, a 360-degree globe that acts as a time zone, a three-day power reserve, and a convenient GMT-pusher to enable quick jumping of the primary reference time zone.
H. Moser & Cie expands its flagship Endeavour line with the Endeavour Flying Hours. The 42mm white gold watch boasts three discs that highlight the hour in succession; a minute-ring circulates at center. The automatic caliber C806 offers a three-day power reserve, and it is the result of a collaboration with sister firm, Hautlence. Sixty pieces of the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Flying Seconds will be offered at $32,500 U.S.
Chronometrie Ferdinand Berthoud launched a world premiere in the Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1-R6.1 The new FB1R6 is a limited-edition tourbillon with fusee and regulator dial based on the historic Ferdinand Berthoud Longitude Watch/Marine Chronometer No. 7. Discover more about this watch, including a full hands on review from Tim.
Ressence, the Swiss-Belgian watch brand, unveiled its Ressence Type 2 E-Crown Concept. The 45mm titanium watch combines Ressence’s “Ressence Orbital Convex System” planetary time display with an electronic timing module that can correct timing error in the mechanical caliber. It can be controlled and programmed using the Ressence E-Crown App, and the system can be programmed to store two independent time zones.
Transcription from Video:
Welcome to our coverage of SIHH 2018. We’re at Parmigiani Fleurier. It is the 20th anniversary of Michel Parmigiani’s first shaped movement and shaped case, and it is actually the year of the Kalpa, here. The Kalpa actually introduced in 2001, this year completely revitalized with a new case. Similar but re-profiled for better ergonomics. A fully open case back, and the talk at the Parmigiani booth is about integrated chronographs, taking after the Chronor Anniversaire of 2016, the new Kalpa collection features a flagship references in the Kalpa Chronor, that you see here. 50 pieces at 85,000 CHF. The watch features a high beat escapement, 36,000 vibrations per hour, 65 hour power reserve. The caliber, if I can get it in the frame, is 18 carat rose gold, much like that of the Parmigiani Fleurier 3621 and the Chronor Anniversaire. This is the 365 automatic winding, with over 50 interior angles, skeletonized, entirely hand finished. It’s also a certified COSC chronometer.
Moving on, we see a new entry, and a member of the Kalpa triad for 2018. This is the Kalpagraphe Chronometre, featuring the Parmigiani 362 integrated automatic chronograph movement. It’s important to note that before this family integrated automatic Parmigiani chronographs were not available. This year, we’re celebrating that mechanical refinement, but also the anniversary of the first shaped Parmigiani. This is the middle of the three offerings. As you can see, same beat rate as the Chronor, 36,000 vibrations per hour, COSC certified, integrated vertical clutch column wheel chronograph, 65 hour power reserve.
And finally, we have the Kalpa Hebdomodaire. Eight day power reserve, this is the same Parmigiani PF110 caliber fitted to the original 1998 shaped tonneau watch, created by Michel Parmigiani. It was the first shaped caliber he ever created. Entirely hand decorated, manufactured in house, and equipped with the new, re-profiled caliber case. This is Parmigiani Fleurier, 2018.
For 2018, Parmigiani Fleurier is commemorating 20 years since Michel Parmigiani’s first shaped movement, and shaped case. That original tonneau reference was powered by this caliber, the PF110. Eight day power reserve, manually wound, with twin main spring barrels. It features an abundance of internal angles. You can see no fewer than eight internal angles, all hand finished. That is the single greatest challenge, the cleft of a tight interior angle to make it mirrored and sharp, and you can see this watch has no fewer than eight. Very difficult to achieve. You’ll find many Geneva sealed calibers skip that process entirely, using only rounded angles. But it can get better.
This is the PF110 in 18 carat rose gold, executed in solid gold. This was the first tonneau shaped 18 carat solid gold movement created to celebrate the brand’s 20th anniversary. Of course, you’ll remember the PF361, also 18 carats, and skeletonized in the Chronor.
And here is that landmark movement. Now the GPHG, the Oscars of watchmaking, recognized the Chronor in the chronograph category, awarding it tops in that specific category for 2016. You can see entirely skeletonized in 18 carat rose gold, an abundance of interior angles. Column wheel, twin column wheel, as it is a split second chronograph with a high beat rate, 36,000 vibrations per hour, full balance bridge and free sprung.
And then we end with the flagship of this year’s calibers. This is the PF365. Much of what went into the Chronor PF361, albeit with a winding system, automatic, 36 hour power reserve. The caliber boasts over 50 interior angles, 36,000 vibrations per hour, vertical clutch column wheel. This was the first family of integrated Parmigiani automatic chronographs at SIHH 2018.
I am holding the new Roger Dubuis Aventador S, limited edition of 88 pieces in forged carbon fiber, raised to 180,000 CHF. It features twin differentially geared balanced, cantered at 45 degrees. The combination of those factors, the 45 degree angle and the differential gearing meaning that the two will tend to cancel out the error. When one runs fast in a given position, the other one will run relatively slower and vice versa. You can see the addition of the jumping seconds. Now, the time piece features a 60 hour power reserve. As you can see, it is a manually wound time piece, featuring a Geneva hallmark caliber. Geneva hallmark finishing, albeit in a techno-industrial aesthetic. The watch is also five bar water resistant, and comes with a vulcanized rubber strap, with a contrasting stitch and an alcantara insert on both sides. It also uses a full leaf spring. There’s a subtle power reserve indicator mounted atop the main spring barrel at roughly 1:30 on the dial, and as you can see, the movement was deliberately styled to resemble the architecture of the Lamborghini Aventador V12.
And we are looking at the certificate of authenticity that ships with every one of the Perelli collaboration watches. Now, the collaboration with Perelli, the exclusive supplier of tires to Formula 1, was announced at the Dubuis booth last year at SIHH. The way the system works is that the tires are actually torn down after the race, these are race used tires, and the serial number from the tire is inscribed onto the strap that is then made from the components of the tire. And what you see in my hand is the individual certificate of authenticity that accompanies each Roger Dubuis Perelli collaboration watches. It pertains to the material used in the strap, which invariably is part of a Perelli race used P0 tire.
H. Moser & Cie
We’re looking at the standout debutante. This is the H. Moser and Cie Endeavor Flying Hours. This is the flagship debut for Moser’s SIHH. IT features a 42mm white gold case with a gorgeous scalloped profile. 12.3mm thick, but it is the complication that lends this watch its intellectual and aesthetic fascination. Now, the wandering hours is a late renaissance clock complication that here has been rendered in unique fashion. Rather than having the disc themselves wander, they rotate. Three discs, four hours each. The white numeral is the current hour and a sapphire disc at center bears the minutes and acts as the minute indication. Now, the watch features a caliber that is a collaboration between Moser and its sister company created the modular complication, and Moser built this movement on its manufacture HMC200. You can see it features hacking, or stop seconds. A three day power reserve with bidirectional automatic winding, it also features a gorgeous free sprung balance and a full balance bridge, so it is robustly shock resistant. This is a full featured watch for all occasions, but not for all buyers, as only 60 examples of this white gold watch will be offered. This is the H. Moser and Cie Endeavor Flying Hours at SIHH 2018.
With Chronometrie Ferdinand Berthoud Val de Travers in Switzerland. The manufacturer located not far from the ancestral home of the namesake watchmaker. You’re looking at an example of a watch that in recent history won a GPHG Aiguille d’Or, and it’s easy to see why. Now, the iconic features of the watch have been common since the first model, but let’s go over some of them. Note the octagonal case, created in fashion inspired by vintage gimbaled marine chronometers, created by the namesake watchmaker. You can see the handsome finish of the dial, executed by hand in a vertical satin, as well as the revealed train of the watch. Also note the unique combination of a tourbillon with center seconds. There’s a pattern on it, and it is exclusive to the brand. Note the unique power reserve at nine o’clock. It’s powered by a conical and jeweled combination of mechanisms, hidden beneath the case back in the conventional version, but in this, with a full sapphire set of bridges, you can actually see the mechanism, along with the entire works of the reverse side.
Now, the finish is exquisite in this chronometer grade watch. 53 hour power reserve, and you’ll note the presence of a stop works. So in addition to the and the tourbillon, when the watch falls below such a power reserve that can keep good time and isochronism, it will automatically lock itself as a precaution. You can see the architecture of the tourbillon, big and broad, easy to take in. There’s a robust overcoil structure to compound the concentered beating of the tourbillon and resistance to gravity. Also note that the sapphire bridges themselves are not of the conventional fashion. This, in what may be a world premier for the watch industry, is a set of beveled sapphire bridges, one of the primary changes between this, the latest addition in titanium and previous variants, has been the addition of those sapphire bridges. You can see in profile the individual numbering to 20 pieces, as well as the beautifully domed box sectioned sapphire.
Now, the brand wants you to know that the profile of the bezel and the dial has also been inspired by pocket watches used for navigation created by Ferdinand Berthoud, and still accurate and functional to this day.
And I’m showing you to FB1.3. Now, this was their third model to come out, platinum, 50 pieces, limited edition. Now, what makes this watch special, in addition to the limited series and the incredible weight in the hand is that this watch features a handsome, sometimes known as German silver or silver nickel dial. A combination of copper, zinc and nickel. It’s untreated, and thus it has a beautiful golden hue that is resistant to corrosion, but over time develops a beautiful dark golden hue, growing more intense as time passes. You can see the iconic 53 hour power reserve display on a dial inspired by vintage marine chronometers, as well as the unique center seconds driven by a visible train. Now, there’s one feature of the watch, in addition to the reverse side that I want to show you. You can see the system with the barrel as well as the stop works, that prevents the power reserve from falling below 53 hours. The beautiful open architecture with optically smooth specular polish of the tourbillon carriage.
But I can’t discuss this watch in its entirety without showing you what may be the best deploying clasp in the watch industry. Trigger actuated and built out of platinum to match the time piece, it also features a micrometric sizing device, so if you’re one hand or one quarter millimeter short, you can easily take in or take out that slack. Moreover, the weighty clasp providing a sense of real substance and quality provides a counterweight to the immense mass of the 44mm platinum case. So hefty on the top, hefty on the bottom, beautifully wrought with eight sides. An iconic case already, despite its few years on this earth. This is Chronometrie Ferdinand Berthoud in platinum.
With the FB1R6, now this is a watch that is a world premier here at SIHH. It is their first implementation of a complete regulator dial, with the world premier power reserve display, that is both resistant to state of wind as well as temperature in the accuracy of its tracing of the 53 hour power reserve. Beautiful straight grained dial, you can see the separation of the hours into a distinct display, with an aperture. You can see the minute display, which features an underlay of the sapphire disc, such that you can see the entire movement, and the center, beautifully counterweighted seconds hand, with a gorgeous, raw finished outer track. It actually has a blasted style outer track, but I want to talk about two features first. I want to talk about the power reserve scale, and I want to talk about the case. Let’s talk about the power reserve scale first. Its underlying architecture, as you can see, with the tracing arm and the cone, harks back to the original FB1.1, but here we have a new architecture that makes the mechanism more visible on the top side, with a spiral that is resistant both to temperature and state of wind, to more precisely trace the arc of the 53 hour power reserve, as with the original FB1.1.
The watch features a stop works, which is a constant force mechanism, a stop works halting the power reserve after 53 hours, to ensure chronometer grade running throughout its main spring barrel wind as well as isochronism. Now, you can see the tourbillon is still beautifully large and visible, a handsome overcoil below a specular black polish finish, optically smooth. You can also note the multiple finishes and planes of the caliber. It’s an absolute feast for the eyes, of wheels, anchors, springs, plates, bridges and screws. A forest of metal, but it is not the highlight of this watches finish. As impressive as it is, it is the steel used in this case. A limited series of 20 for the debut model that is hardened to in excess of 1200 vickers, a special heat treating step makes the case effectively as hard as ceramic, but without the danger of fracture or shattering that you find in ceramic. Comparisons to tool metal are being made, and we even have an interesting device on the table right now that demonstrates that even with a nail or abrasive, you can’t make an impression on this beautifully hard and beautifully brutal industrial grade material. This is the FB1R6, a world premier at SIHH, 2018.
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Triple Split & 1815 Homage to Walter Lange
Transcription of the video: We’re here at A. Lange & Söhne with the 1815 homage to Walter Lange. This is the time piece in rose gold, one of the 90 made. You can see the caliber, L1924, yet another homage to the namesake of the brand. You can see the watch features both sweep seconds and jumping seconds, and the most distinctive feature of the watch might be the unique ability to halt and resume the jumping seconds by means of the pusher at two o’clock. This is A. Lange & Söhne, and the homage to Walter Lange, the 1815 collection.
And the new Saxonia collection triple split chronograph has launched. What is it? Well, it’s a 100 piece series priced at 139,000 EUR, that is with the VAT. The ability to split the seconds, the minutes and the hours, it builds on the heritage of the double split. 43.2mm in white gold. The watch is not as thick as you might expect, at 15.6mm in profile, but it is every bit as heavy as you might expect. The mass is incredible, and perhaps due to that fact, Lange has equipped the time piece with a rare folding clasp as you can see, in matching white gold.
Now, the caliber is really the story here, as you can see. Twin column wheels, executed in what’s known as German silver. Let me see if I can get better focus. There we go. Featuring 567 components and a decoupling device to help reduce parasitic drag in the system caused by the chronograph, the movement is a veritable jungle of jewels and screws, bridges, plates and levers, immaculately finished, as ever, from Lange.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar, Tourbillon, Overseas Dual Time & More
Discover each of the new Vacheron Constantin models with a hands on review from Tim Mosso.
- Pricing and technical details of Traditionnelle Tourbillon
- Pricing and technical details of the FIFTYSIX Collection
Transcription of the video: What’s better than a dual time? Well, dual dual times. We’ve got our dueling banjos, here at SIHH. Now, these are recent debuts. We saw the dual time just prior to SIHH. I’m happy to bring you the rose gold variant for the first time. You can see the watch, handsome in 41mm, rose gold or steel, charismatic in both variants. Now, you can see, for the first time, the overseas dual time is blessed with a Vacheron in house caliber, with 60 hour automatic 5110DT. You’ll note the beautiful engraved compass rose style 22 carat gold winding mass. Now it does feature a paramagnetic ring, outboard of the movement in both versions. Why is this important? Because previously, the watch featured anti-magnetism via a solid case back and a fully encompassing soft iron cage. Well, that is not necessary for anti-magnetism. It’s merely necessary to shield the movement with a paramagnetic substance. Thus they have the anti-magnetism and the 150 meter water resistance that makes these true sports watches in every sense.
Now, let’s take a quick look at the case back of the dual time in rose gold, because this is a refinement that debuted with the third generation overseas in 2016, and it is the quick release system, using only your thumbnails, no need to resort to a jeweler or a tool. You can remove the strap and retrofit a bracelet or another strap. Also useful for deep cleaning. The rose gold version that you see here comes with an auxiliary leather strap, whereas the steel variant, with that beautiful glossy blue dial and applied indices is available, standard with the bracelet, and then the accessory leather and rubber straps.
Both of these watches will be available shortly through the Vacheron Constantin website, and check out the overseas, remember, Geneva hallmark. The epitome of refinement, and yet the toughness to go blow for blow, whether you party in the surf or the turf.
You’re looking at the traditional tourbillon. This is a watch that’s been added to the collection. Well, I should say the subcollection, Excellence Platin. Since 2006, Excellence Platin has represented the apex, a sort of hot-rodded, upscale Vacheron within a Vacheron collection. Now, you can see the case. Beautifully fluted and stepped in the fashion of the tradition of the traditionelle watches. Entirely in platinum, this is 41mm, but only 10.4mm thick, despite the complication. No highlights. A dial and beautiful blasted finish, made of matching platinum 950. Applied and faceted indices and half dauphine hands in white gold, take a look at the Maltese cross style motif of the tourbillon carriage itself, and the continuously rounded specular polish of the tourbillon bridge, mirrored in the fashion often known as poli noir, or black polish. It’s immaculate. It’s also technically sophisticated, as there’s more to this one than meets the eye.
This is the first time ever that Vacheron Constantin has created an automatic winding tourbillon. And here it is. This is caliber 2160, automatic winding by peripheral rotor. It’s one of the few of its kind, not just today, but in the history of high horology. Impressively, this peripheral rotor automatic boasts an 80 hour autonomy between windings, despite the power intensive nature of the complication. We’re not quite done, because Excellence Platin is a complete program for your watch. It’s basically a weight program for your time piece, bulking up with platinum infused thread, in contrast to the blue, minimally bolstered alligator leather strap, and you’ll note a full clasp in matching platinum 950, with a beautifully contoured underside that matches the curvature of your wrist. So this watch is a gentle giant on your forearm. Handsome, rare, meticulously finished and technically beautiful. This is a watch to satisfy the left and the right side of your brains, for this SIHH.
I’m going oversized for a watch with outsize personality. Now, this is part of Vacheron Constantin Metier D’Art series, they commemorate the first manned flights that took place in the late 18th century in France. Five watches, five flights, five different styles, and five pieces will be created of each of the five individual balloons. Let’s talk a little bit about what you get. The watch has a bit of vintage allure about it, but nothing more so that the antediluvian aviation device at center. Now, carved from solid gold and then retroactively electroplated to create the white gold additions, it takes three weeks to create each balloon on each example. Free hand engraved in excruciating micro-engraving technique, it’s surrounded by a beautiful, translucent sea of enamel that itself takes 15 hours to execute.
As if my cup did not runneth over sufficiently, the watch features a beautifully textured rose gold chaptering, framing the entirety. You’ll even note complication in abundance, as you have both hours and minutes in scrolling fashion, and at the base, you have a day and a date functionality. Turn it over, and now we’re looking at a variation of Vacheron Constantin’s corporate caliber 2460 automatic, beautifully blazoned with a rotor in 22 carat rose gold that is unique to the series. Now, the watches are individually numbered, hand finished within and without.
A total of 25 will be made, and for approximately $135,000 USD, while rare, expect this collection to be oversubscribed. If you’re not already in the balloon, your ride has already departed.
2018 brings you another variation on the latest installments in the Vacheron Constantin Metier D’Art collection. This watch commemorates five separate balloons from five separate pioneering manned flights that took place in France during the late 18th century.
So 25 watches in total, for a US retail price of 135,000 USD. Now, you get a lot. You get a hand engraved balloon, with a yellow gold base and then electroplated white gold additions, so free hand engraved. It’s set on top of translucent enamel panels that themselves take 15 hours to create. You can see complication at the base of the dial in the form of the day date and the scrolling hours and minutes at the top. There’s a beautiful chapter ring, engraved in gold framing, the golden hand engraved balloon. Turn it all over and you can see a variation of the Vacheron Constantin caliber 2460 automatic. I’m going to shine it up for you, as though the artisans hadn’t done this sufficiently.
Automatic winding and convenient finish to Geneva hallmark standards within and without. Remember, that is now a complete case standard.
We’re looking at the flagship of the new 56 collection, inspired by the 1956 reference, 6073. You can see the resemblance most clearly from a head on profile. The watch is a versatile every day reference that is designed to be both a potential point of entry to Vacheron Constantin ownership and your everyday watch, regardless of your collecting acumen. Now, the watches are all in 40mm cases, available in stainless steel as you see here, or in rose gold. Now, to recommend the stainless steel as both the more accessible price point with no compromises in dial appointment or finish, inside or out, as well as a feature that’s unique to the steel watches, which is a full double folding deploying clasp.
You can see the dial is richly appointed, with white gold indices and numerals. It is luminescent, for easy viewing and low or no light, and there’s a handsome contrast between the opaline or matte style center dial and the sunburst of the outer dial. There is a sector or railroad track chapter ring separating the two different layers, and you can see outboard there is a radial date, completing the triple date. Crescent style moon face at six o’clock, important because this is the 122 year moon face that is generally germane to perpetual calendars, rather than the one that requires resetting roughly every three years seen on most watches featuring the moon face. So an upscale moon face for an upscale watch, and a movement to match.
Now, you can see this is a Vacheron Constantin manufacture movement based on the 2460 family of automatic calibers. 308 parts, so though it is a simple calendar, not an annual or perpetual, it is robustly complex and you’re getting an awful lot of high horology for your money. In stainless steel, a versatile time piece bearing the mark of the Poisson de Geneve on the case as well as the movement. This is Vacheron Constantin, the 56 complete calendar.
Richard Mille, Greubel Forsey & Ressence
Highlighting the Richard Mille Pablo McDonald Series Second Edition, $900,000 USD. Greubel Forsey Earth GMT with Three Timezones. Ressence Type 2 E-Crown Concept which may be one of the most talked about watches at the show, learn what makes it connected with the E-Crown module.
This is the Richard Mille RM53-01, Pablo McDonald. This is the second of the Pablo Mcdonaldseries. The original came out in 2012, and was a sort of shielded carapace with minimal sapphire area and a small viewing port for the actual time. Well, this is the second edition, 30 pieces, $900,000 USD, and it’s been redesigned with a laminated sapphire crystal. So somewhat like bulletproof glass. It’s designed not to shatter, even as it’s struck with square blows. The entire watch, with a caliber suspended via ten pulleys, and you can actually see the suspension via ten pulleys inside the case, is shock resistant to 5000 instantaneous Gs. Now, it is a caliber with the 70 hour power reserve, despite the tourbillon complication, beating away at 21,600 vibrations per hour. Significantly, the watch features a minimum of sprung mass within the caliber itself. I’m going to move around to the back of the case so you can see this to advantage.
But the watch actually includes a double grade five titanium base plate. This is Richard Mille, 2018 at SIHH, with the RM53-01 Pablo McDonald. 30 pieces in TPT carbon fiber, robustly shock resistant, $900,000 USD.
Up next is Gruebel Forsey, and we are looking at the Earth GMT. Three time zones, a 24 second angled tourbillon. This is a limited edition of 33 pieces. Sapphire case inserts, domed sapphire on both sides. It’s unique in that it features not just the three time zones, but a 360 degree globe. You can see the pusher adjuster at two o’clock acts as the instantaneous adjuster for a reference time zone. There is a day/night indication that is coordinated with the rotation of the globe. You can see the immensely domed and box sectioned sapphire that rises up over the front of the case. You can see, in profile, the size window that enables viewing of the globe. The watch features a 72 hour power reserve, a beat rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour. Above all, it’s designed to be user friendly and highly legible, with the use of sapphire both within and without the watch, creating a sense of airiness, in spite of the considerable physical heft of this 45.5mm white gold watch.
Closing out day two at SIHH 2018, with what may be the most discussed watch of the show. Now, this is the Ressence type two E-Crown concept. 45mm in titanium. It’s a lenticular form that I’m told has the exact same curvature and diameter as a tennis ball, but wears on the wrist quite compact. A combination of ergonomics and mechanics with electronics, this is a very progressive watch design. It is misunderstood, in some respects. It’s not a smart watch.
The focus isn’t on its aspects as a connected watch. It is traditional, mechanical watch making. An automatic base caliber, and then that’s the bottom. On the top is the Ressence orbital convex system, that controls the movement of the planetary style time displays, and then between them is the actual E-Crown module, and it’s fascinating on numerous levels. First, because it can actually continually adjust the time of the watch to keep the mechanical time keeping accurate. It will never drive the watch, but it does keep the mechanical time keeper precise. You can also interface with the watch, setting second time zones as well as using the E-Crown to adjust the time, using a special E-Crown app which you can see on the separate website that’s been created for the watch, which is e-crown.com.
Now, it’s also important to note that the watch does have a dual time functionality, which is something that hasn’t been widely discussed in the pre-SIHH press material, but it’s as simple as tapping the dial, and that’s how you interact with the watch. What appears to be a power reserve, or even the Ressence oil thermometer system, seen on the type three, is actually a photovoltaic array with ten shutters. Now, the ten shutters, I’m going to get a better view of it right here, they expose a photovoltaic panel that’s one of two ways that the E-Crown system energizes itself. There is an automatic winding rotor, so it can mechanically wind itself to power up its battery, but can also open these shutters when it’s low on power to charge itself. Now, there’s an indicator, and right now represents E-Crown off. The colored, curved portions around represent the different functions of the watch, including the setting of the two time zones and the selection of the two time zones. You actually configure those by tapping the watch in sequences.
The time piece, as all Ressence watches, is built in Switzerland at their manufacture, and although this is a concept, it is expected to come to market in late 2018. Ressence wants you to know that it can run entirely as a mechanical time piece with no reliance on the battery or the E-Crown module. Moreover, it’s important to note that the module itself never drives the watch. It only provides a supplementary memory which can reset the watch to the correct time should it run down, sit for a while and then be rewound. Periodically adjust the accuracy of the watch, or select between the two independent time zones that the watch can display. This is the Ressence type two E-Crown concept at SIHH 2018.