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Watch and Brand News SIHH 2018 Day Three in Video Review: Panerai Luminor, Piaget, Hermes, Cartier and Audemars Piguet

Tim Mosso takes a look at some of the highlights from Day Three at SIHH 2018. Watch hands on reviews of each brand by clicking below to jump or continue reading!

SIHH 2018 Releases

For 2018, Audemars Piguet has strengthened its mainstay Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore collection. The Royal Oak Offshore turns 25 with a birthday present to itself: the reference 26237ST, a literal re-edition of the 1993 reference 25721 in stainless steel. Cartier arrived at SIHH 2018 with the most dramatic re-design of the Cartier Santos de Cartier watch line since the 2004 centennial Santos 100 lineup arrived.

The Hermes Carre H is a revial of a 2010 limited edition model designed by architect and interior designer Marc Berthier. Piaget’s 2018 novelties reinforce the brand’s claim to be the “Master of The Ultra Thin.” Officine Panerai enters 2018 with an all-manufacture-movement collection. The new entry level models, represented by the new Luminor Logo, will be offered for the first time exclusively with the Panerai in-house caliber P.6000.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Royal Oak Offshore

Video transcription:

By request, we’re here with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Self-Winding with indigo blue mega tapisserie dial. Matching indigo blue diver style strap and on the crown shoulder and the pushers, Audemars first use of blue ceramic. It’s a 42 millimeter stainless steel watch and buckle. Audemars Piguet base caliber 31 26 display case back.

Technically this is reference 26 40ST, but the devil’s in the details here and the details are that exquisite dial, ceramic pushers, and the matching strap.

One of the watches’ everyone’s discussing. This is the Royal Oak Offshore Automatic Chronograph. For the first time with green ceramic and as you can see the green ceramic is double finished, polished and satin on the bezel. You’ll also notice the use on the crown shoulder as well as the pusher guards. The watch features, what’s being described as, khaki green with a beige mega tapisserie dial, and a camouflage diver style vulcanized rubber strap and is stainless steel. You can see on the reverse side Audemars Piquet base caliber 31 26. Turning a vertical clutch chronograph module. This is big handsome and bold and we can get even a little bit closer to see the details. The agency of the double finish of the bezel, polished on its flanks. Satin grained on it’s tops. Hairline bevel of the polished steel case. You can also see the use of green ceramic on the crown guards. As well as the chronograph pusher. This is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 44 millimeters beige dial camouflage strap and khaki green ceramic bezel, chronograph pushers, and crown shoulder.

You’re looking at the debut of the Audemars Piguet Double Balance caliber 31 32, and a 37 millimeter rose gold case. This is a unisex option. You can see the architecture of the bridges and the movement in every respect. However, instead of being blackened, there’s a silver rhodium plate to most of the bridges. The movement you can see beautifully opened worked with a visible barrel, double balances. You can see the wheels, you can see the pinons, you can see the bridges in the plates. Watch will be offered for the 2008 model year. This is the Royal Oak 37 millimeters, double balance.

With the Audemars Piguet Offshore Automatic. As you can see a handsome black mega tapisserie dial. Here combined with a black ceramic bezel, black ceramic chronograph pushers, and a black ceramic crown shoulder. Note the use of two tone vulcanized rubber on the strap. A handsome compliment to the white, black, red tri-tone of the dial. A sporty option in 42 millimeters. Watch is blessed with a easy to adjust stainless steel pin buckle, to match it’s stainless steel case. A rugged and versatile sports option. Features the same Audemars Piguet manufactured caliber 31 26 automatic.

You’re looking at the debut of the 37 millimeter Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Opened Worked Double Balance. The watch features a white gold case with a unique Audemars Piguet frosted gold finish. A powerful electron agitator is actually used to create this on a blank canvas of white gold. You can see the architecture of the movement has not changed. However, it is now a silver rhodium plating, instead of blackened skeletonize bridges. You can see the double balances beating away on an open worked balance bridge, 37 millimeters in frosted white gold. This is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Opened Work Double Balance.

We’re looking at one of the new colored divers. This is the Royal Oak Offshore Diver in turquoise blue. Now, you can see it’s turquoise blue with matching turquoise blue rubber shoulder to the crown. Rubber shoulder to the bezel setting to the crown. Matching turquoise blue strap. This is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver for 2018 in turquoise blue.

And you’re looking at one of the new color series Royal Oak Offshore Divers. This one is khaki green. That’s a rubber shoulder to the crown, rubber shoulder to the bezel setting. You can see matching khaki green strap. Khaki green mega tapisserie dial. Inside Audemars Piguet base caliber 31 20 automatic. 42 millimeters in stainless steel. This is part of the new Royal Oak Offshore Diver Colors Collection.

Officine Panerai Luminor Logo & Grand Complications

Video Transcription:

With a world premier, this is the Panerai Luminor 1950, you ready for this, guys, Moon Phases Tourbillon Equation of Time GMT, 199,000 euros, and that’s only the beginning. Now the case is 50 millimeters and it contains Panerai’s first ever moon phase display which you can see is actually an orbital moon phase positioned on the case back. This watch is still a sports watch through and through, 100 meters water resistant. This is a timepiece that is built to suit because the equation of time as well as the equation of sunset and sunrise that are featured are geographically approximate, so you have to specify where you are in the world before you can take delivery of the watch.

Now delivery of the watch once you’ve paid your nearly 200,000 euro takes 12 months. It’s also highly customizable as you get to choose, for example, whether you have this simulated radium patina luminescence or a conventional green superluminova. You also get to choose the color of the hands as well as the finish of the case. This is a watch that is partially bespoke and again, as a world premiere, very few will be made with tourbillon, sunrise-sunset, equation of time and the first ever moon phase in a Panerai product. Fully deploying clasp, alligator leather strap, and for you old school Paneristi, it still has screw fixed lugs.

This is the Panerai PAM 920, Panerai’s first ever moon phase. They call it L’Astronomo. I’m wearing the watch on my 16 centimeter wrist to show you guys that yes, you can pull it off even if, like me, you’ve got a baby wrist. Still 100 meters water resistant, still rough and tumble.

And for 2018, the company is celebrating both a new line, Luminor logo, and the end of ETA caliber use. Now they like to say that since the inception of the brand is a consumer watchmaker, they’ve gone from all ETA calibers to all in-house calibers, and so it with the new Luminor logo. Both versions, marina and base, will feature the P6000 three-day manual wind manufactured caliber. Six versions are available, three with base dial, three with marina dial with small subseconds at 9:00. This is the PAM 773. They’re still 44 millimeters, still stainless steel and you can see that they feature the iconic interlocking OP logo on both sides, dial and case back. Still 100 meters water resistant with the iconic crown guard. These watches include a marina variant and right here I have the PAM 777 that debuts a new textile strap option with a leather set of gussets. This is now your entry-level Panerai with manufactured caliber in marina and base form.

We are looking at every model in the new Luminor logo collection for 2018. The entry level Luminor Base and Marina will be equipped with a manufactured movement. For the first time the Panerai collection will be entirely in-house. The new movement, the caliber P6000 is a manual wind, three-day power reserve manufactured caliber to be contained in six references in 44 millimeter polished stainless steel cases. Each watch which is water resistant to 100 meters, there are three variants for Luminor base and Luminor marina respectively. All watches are delivered on unique straps including the first ever use of colored textile strap in the regular production Panerai catalog. Again, once more, there will be no more ETA powered Panerai, as these are now the point of entry to Panerai ownership, featuring the iconic circa 1970s interlocking OP logo on the dial as well as the case back. This is the new Luminor logo collection.

Now we’re looking at the Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT, but it’s friends call it the PAM 767, part of the Lo Scienziato collection. Roughly inspired by the life of Galileo Galilei, the watch is a tour de force, 3D printed. The case is then laser centered to create a product that is 30 percent lighter and has 30 percent less mass than a conventional Panerai case in titanium. Now the timepiece features titanium bridges. The entire caliber, titanium like the case, with only 23 grams of mass features a six-day manual wind power reserve, 100 meter water resistance and the famed rotisserie chicken Panerai multiaxial tourbillon. The time features a GMT with an am-pm indication, all bridges are skeletonized and you can see there’s a handsome blue [ray haute 00:05:13] that is new for 2018. Satin-finished case, polished bezel, blue ray haute, skeletonized movement and dial, handsomely equipped and for you Paneristi purists, it still has the lug screws. This is Lo Scienziato PAM 767 SIHH 2018.

We are looking at L’Astronomo PAM 920, technically the Luminor 1950 Moon Phase Tourbillon Equation of Time GMT. Now, this watch is 50 millimeters in titanium and completely customizable. Yes, it’s Panerai’s first moon phase, and we’ll get to that in a moment, but let’s talk about the basics. When you buy this watch for 199,000 euro, you then wait 12 months for the privilege of delivery. The moon phase which is the namesake of the watch is orbital-style and on the reverse of the case. The timepiece is still 100-meter water resistant, so it’s a true sport watch, and for you Panerai purists, it features Panerai’s screw-fixed lugs for rapid strap swapping. There is a full deploying clasp. You can customize the hands, the luminova color, the finish of the case, the finish of the dial, anything you like, but standard equipment on each example is the rotisserie chicken style Panerai tourbillon that we know and love, equation of time with dog-fang style indicator at 6:00, equation of sunset and sunrise that must be customized to your geographic location, a GMT functionality and a world premiere for Panerai along with the moon phase, a polarized date disc.

You can see how it’s completely clear on the sapphire that runs the circumference of the dial. It only appears over the polarized underlay at 3:00, so it’s invisible in all other cases so as not to obscure the movement. The timepiece, manually wind and completely skeletonized, is open, airy and visible, appropriate to a timepiece dedicated to astronomy and the celestial heavens.

Hermes

Video Transcription:

Here at SIHH 2018 with Hermes and we’re looking at the revival of the Caree H. A watch first sold in a limited series in 2010 by popular demand it returns this year. Now 38 by 38 millimeters in stainless steel, the watch features a combination of a high polish bezel with a blasted case treatment on the case back as well as the flank.

The watch comes in two different variants, you can see gray and black with raised numerals and small shocks of color at center. With black you get red, with gray you get yellow. Both of them feature calfskin straps in signature Hermes fashion. And both of them feature the Hermes manufacture caliber H1912. Now you can see it’s decorated with an interlocking H motif, 28 jewels. It is a 50 hour power reserve, automatic movement. The timepiece features stop seconds. A versatile size, neither a dress watch, nor a sports watch, you have your choice of the two dials and the two straps seen here.

Looking at the Arceau Chronograph. It’s an interesting change this year, the watch now 41 millimeters from the prior 43. But it’s a long running shape, the Arceau line dating back to 1978. The most striking feature of the watch is the combination of the blasted titanium case finish with the similar frosted style about the black of the dial. And you can see the distinctive semi-radial array, skewed Arabic numerals of the hour track.  But the same treatment on the sub-registers themselves.

The shocks of red on constant seconds and chronograph seconds at center. And we may as well start it up. Provide a handsome contrast and the signature Arceau style looks, which as you can see, are asymmetrical, feature an embossed calfskin leather strap, made by Hermes. Now it’s important to note that the embossed pattern on this strap might from an automotive enthusiast’s perspective be described as, “Daytona.” I’m not sure that I’m allowed to use that name outside of a certain Maison in watches. But I would call this the Daytona embossing and it’s quite handsome.

The watch features an automatic caliber modular chronograph featuring both stop seconds and a quick set for the date. This is the Hermes Arceau Chronograph, now 41 millimeters in titanium at SIHH 2018.

Cartier

Video transcription

We’re at Cartier 2018 at SIHH. You are looking at the Santos Skeleton in large. This is the first application of a fully skeletonized Cartier movement in a steel watch, manual wind caliber, 9611. Nicely executed. 100 meters water resistant. Stainless steel with a new quick release lug system that allows you to slide the strap out on either side. Even has an accessory bracelet that can be micro sized without tools. Full deploying clasp.

This is the 2018 Cartier Santos Skeleton in large. Stainless steel, fully skeletonized. For 2018, the Cartier Santos large is available on a full bracelet in yellow gold. You can see the reprofiled case and bezel. There’s a pronounced timbre to the case. It’s more of an arc than a rectangular bronchard or plank featuring a polished Santos style bezel. Mostly satin finished with a few beveled highlights. You can see that the model does feature the new quick release lug system. You can remove the strap easy, the bracelet easy with nothing but your fingernails.

Perhaps even more intriguing is the fact that the sizable links of the bracelet, if I can show them in detail, I can’t quite. The sizeable links of the bracelet can be removed without a tool. There’s actually a push button release. The retaining bar comes out and you can size the bracelet without a jeweler or a jewelers tool. 100 meters water resistant with Cartier caliber 1847 automatic. This is the Cartier Santos large, part of the redesigned Santos collection. Demonstrating the Cartier Santos large and the sizable tool free system that allows you to remove individual links. You press down on the micro link. Then if I can maintain the frame of focus, you remove the link after pressing down the micro switch. It’s literally as easy as that to size your Santos bracelet without a tool.

Finally, we have some notes on sizing for the watch. It is effectively 47.5 millimeters lug to lug by 40 millimeters wide. This is the Santos large in yellow gold at Cartier 2018. Then you have retrograde minutes from zero to 60.

This is a Cartier 2018. 900 gold beads. That was an 18 with the Teg Santre. Originally created in the early 1920s. Still going strong. Reintroduced this year in three versions. The one you see here, the champagne dial, yellow gold case. A black dial with a rose gold case and then there is a silver dial, platinum, limited edition of 50 pieces. The watch is powered by a Cartier manual wind caliber 8971. The proportions of the watch are 23 millimeters wide by about 46.3 millimeters from lug to lug and a svelte 7.2 millimeters thick. The watch has a handsome vaulted profile. It’s delivered on an alligator leather strap with a pin buckle.

We’re looking at the Teg Santre in rose gold. The Teg Santre in rose gold is one of three new models for this year. Platinum is a limited edition of 50 pieces, rose gold is unlimited with a black dial, there is a champagne dial, yellow gold model. The watch is 7.2 millimeters thick, 23 millimeters wide and just over 46 millimeters lug to lug. All versions are delivered on an alligator leather strap with a pin buckle. It’s powered by a manual wind Cartier mechanical caliber 8971.

You’re looking at the Cartier Tag Santre in platinum. Part of a limited series of 50 pieces. It’s one of three Tag Santre models introduced for 2018. The watch originally born in the early 1920s is reborn for the 21st century. Approximately 46 millimeters lug to lug, 23 millimeters wide and 7.2 millimeters thick. Svelte it is with the signature ruby red cabochon that is characteristic of Cartier platinum timepieces. 50 pieces with a manual wind mechanical Cartier 8971 movement inside. This is the Tag Santre reborn in platinum with champagne dial and applied into season numerals at Cartier 2018.

Piaget

We’re looking at the Piaget Altiplano Marquetry Tourbillon featuring a marquetry dial of interlocking pieces of malachite. Beautiful green, striated running the entire spectrum of shades from almost white to almost black. It’s an extraordinary effort paired with a 41 millimeter rose gold case and a Flying Tourbillon. It’s Piaget’s manufactured caliber 670P. You can see from the reverse side the base of the Flying Tourbillon with a spectacular flared triple spoke bridge, 23 joules manual winding with a 48 hour power reserve. This watch is one of eight that will be offered. Exceptionally thin, exceptionally handsome, and exquisitely handmade in more ways than one. This is the Piaget Altiplano Marquetry Tourbillon with green malachite dial.

I’m here with the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept. 41 millimeters by two millimeters thick. It’s created in cobalt alloy. This watch was four years in development and is the subject of no fewer than five patents, for everything from the manner in which the glass is glued to a unique balance system that’s born on ball bearings. The case back serves as the base plate for the time piece. Nevertheless, 13 joules, 28,800 vibrations per hour beat rate with a real world 44 hour power reserve. The watch also features a unique winding system as you can see. The crown is integral with the case and integrated in form. There’s a separate tool that’s used for winding the watch. Now this is a concept watch, not a production piece. But Piaget expects some of the techniques used here, such as the single sided ball bearing born balance and the unique hanging barrel to find their way into future ultra thin Piaget references.

I mentioned that there’s a specialized winding and setting tool for manipulating the watch, and this is it. The watch, only two millimeters thick, has no conventional crown or keyless works. The interaction of the two produces an every day usable timepiece as thin as a Swiss two Franc coin.

You’re looking at a world record setter, topping the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo automatic. This is the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Caliber 910P. Now the watch is 4.3 millimeters thick. You can see that the back of the watch actually doubles as the base plate of the caliber, a number of interesting refinements here. You can see that the dial itself is recessed below the plane of the crystal. So when you strap it hard to your wrist, the sapphire won’t bend and come in contact with the hands, stopping the watch, hence the recession of the dial and the hands below the plane of the bridges. Now the watch has a real world power reserve of 50 hours, and it also features an intriguing peripheral rotor automatic system. So the rotor’s actually mounted on ball bearings. It moves around the circumference of the watch. The timepiece, again 4.3 millimeters thick, 41 millimeters across the diameter of the case. In white gold as you see here, also delivered in rose gold. You can see the peripheral rotor moving. It’s an entertaining piece, it’s an exquisite piece, and naturally Piaget is the self proclaimed master of the ultra thin. Could not sit whilst the title was usurped by others, and thus we are looking, for now, the world’s thinnest automatic winding watch.

I showed you the white gold version of the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Caliber 910. Now I want to show you the red gold version. I find that the case lines, which are strong but simple, are better defined by the rose gold. The watch is elegant with a contrast between the ruby of the pivot jewels, the black of the dial hour track, and the rhodium plated bridges. In conjunction with the rose gold, a handsome array of colors, the watch, like it’s white gold counterpart is 4.3 millimeters thick and 41 millimeters across. Caliber 910 making this the world’s thinnest automatic watch and intriguingly, features a peripheral winding mass that you can actually see moving around the circumference of the dial. This is the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate in rose gold.

Piaget has debuted a strong class of 2018 novelties. Perhaps the most intriguing of which is this Vintage Inspiration in white gold. Now you may remember this timepiece debuting two years ago as the black tie, inspired by and almost identically detailed timepiece of the 1970’s, this one in contrast to the original, is powered by a Piaget automatic caliber 534 manufactured movement. But that’s not the headliner here. It’s the combination of an exquisite white gold case featuring circumferential satin grain at its case base, a quadruple stepped, quadruple gadroon dial in high polish, and a beautiful sun ray motif to the top of the bezel, framing a dial in horizontal malachite stone. The semiprecious stone matched to a beautiful rich green alligator leather strap in white gold. This watch is one of two intriguing men’s options from the Vintage Inspiration collection this year. It’s 43 by 45 millimeters. That’s 45 across, 43 from lug to lug. A handsome cushion style case that’s aged well since the 1970’s, better than ever in this iteration.

But also in this iteration. This is the same watch, mechanically identical, albeit with rose gold case and lapis lazuli dial. Rich, masculine, and uncommon, this is a watch that perhaps better than anything else exemplifies Piaget’s junction of jewelry expertise and watchmaking savoir faire. It’s as beautiful as it is beguiling, with a handsome, almost pure metal structure of the bezel, perhaps even better pronounced in the rose gold case than in the white gold. This is the Piaget Vintage Inspiration collection in malachite and lapis lazuli, white gold and rose gold at SIHH 2018.

 

About Tim Mosso
Tim Mosso is a lifelong watch enthusiast and historian. He is an active member of the online watch community and his passion for watches is second to none. As a self-proclaimed watch nut, he loves to bring his knowledge of horology across all different platforms.

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